Monthly Archives: April 2013

In León

Bronchitis has gotten the best of me and we are going to fly home soon. We will resume the Camino in the fall.

In the meantime we are staying in the Parador San Marcos (PRS-60-6). It is absolutely amazing. It is probably where the people took a hotel break in the movie “The Way”. It has been many things over the centuries. Here are some shots of the outside.

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The Cafeteria is quite something. It has a Mujédar ceiling that is quite amazing.

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20130426-122735.jpgHere are some shots from the cloister which is near our room and finally a shot of the gardens from our balcony.

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20130426-122934.jpgA view of the hotel.

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While in León, we met the lawyer from Atlanta we had dined with in Los Arcos as well as Mallory, whom we had dined with in Frómista

Posted from León, Castile and León, Spain.

Day 20 – Frómista to Villalcázar de Sirga

We were planning to walk to Carrión de Los Condes, but realized that the church here should not be missed so we stopped in Villalcázar. More on that later. We stopped for breakfast at Población de Campos. After that while on the Camino path right by the road we were temporarily surrounded

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20130424-162358.jpgWe continued to Villarmentero de Campos for lunch at a rural bar. It was here that we met Emilio.

20130424-162633.jpgWe relaxed and did some laundry and at 7 went up to Iglesia de Santa María la Blanca (PRS-49-1). We attended the mass and looked around. Here are some exterior shots and the Santiago Retalbo.

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20130424-203103.jpgWe are having dinner now and will have an early evening.

Posted from Lomas, Castile and León, Spain.

Day 19 – Itero de la Vega to Frómista

10 mile or so walk. Could have gone a little further but not sure of the next few places. We started after breakfast and walked to Boadilla, where we had an early lunch (hamburguesa) and then continued to walk through the Alta Meseta, a very level place. Here is a stork on top of the church at Boadilla.

20130424-160028.jpgThis is an old dovecote. The farmers like doves because they eat insects, poop fertilizer and are good to eat.

20130424-160311.jpgWe then walked along the canal until reaching Frómista.

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20130424-160624.jpgOnce in Frómista we ran into a young lady, Katie, from Ohio and CA with whom we had had dinner the previous evening. 31 years old and finishing up a Masters degree. We also ran into the Swedish couple whom we had seen in Los Arcos and Logroño. We toured to San Martín church. It is a Romanesque church built in 1066 and restored around 1900. The intricate figures on the outside are amazing.

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20130424-161442.jpgWe went to the Pilgrim Mass at San Pedro and were given a special individual blessing after. It was quite moving. We had dinner at a nice Castillian restaurant with Katie and her friend Mallory. Then to bed.

Posted from Lomas, Castile and León, Spain.

Day 18 – Hontanas to Itero de la Vega

Full 12.5 mile including a meseta climb which featured 1050 meters with 12% grade. The first place we came to was the ruins of the hospital San Antón (PRS-45). Lots of carvings around the doorway although they are in pretty rough shape.

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The next town is Castrojeriz (PRS-46). We had lunch at a bar next to Ex-colegiata de Santa María del Manzano. It being Monday nothing was open to look around, but here are two of the entrances.

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20130422-182136.jpgHigh on the hill above Castrojeriz is a castle which has history back to Julius Caesar or Pompey and later Visigoths, Moors and Christians.

20130422-182711.jpgOn the way out if town, we passed the Iglesia de Santiago de Los Cabelleros and were reminded of our own mortality.

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After leaving Castrojeriz we were confronted with the big hill. 12% grade on the way up and 18% on way down. Spectacular views from up here though.

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20130422-183434.jpgOne thing I have noticed is that Don Quijote would have plenty of opponents here…Every hill has a large number of wind turbines. After getting down from the meseta, we managed to get to Itero del Camino having left the province of Burgos and entered Palencia.

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Posted from Itero del Castillo, Castile and León, Spain.

Day 17 – Rabé to Hontanas

Full 12 mile day. We left Rabé around 8 am and went over a meseta into Hornillos and then over another meseta into Hontanas. The Albergue Mesón el Fontado in Hontanas was a very old building built right into the hill. Here are some meseta shots and a picture from our room.

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We had time in the afternoon to enjoy beer in the sun. We had a nice talk with a peregrino from Vancouver and a long talk with Andrew from Great Britain, with whom we also had dinner. We gave him one if our Camino cards and got his contact information also.

Posted from Iglesias, Castile and León, Spain.

Day 16 – Burgos to Rabé de las Calzadas

We left the Hotel Norte y Londres around 9 and did our best finding the Camino. We got a great last look at the Cathedral. 20130421-172251.jpgWe then went over a bridge and out of the city of Burgos and into the province as we approach the meseta. 20130421-172546.jpg20130421-172536.jpgOnce we got to Rabé, we checked into the Albergue and later looked around town. I also played around with the wide angle and fisheye lens which I got for Christmas from Abby20130422-172622.jpg20130422-172635.jpgThe Albergue we stayed in was called Libéranos Domine, based on an old saying about the mud between Tardajos and Rabé, that God should deliver us.

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Posted from Iglesias, Castile and León, Spain.

Day 15 Burgos

We returned to the Cathedral (PRS42-1) for a visit since we had missed the main church in the process of looking at chapels. I will fill in yesterday when I get a chance. Here are highlights from the main church. First the main Retalbo.

20130419-183528.jpgThe grave of El Cid.

20130419-183649.jpgThe ceiling and the choir.

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20130419-183835.jpgAlso in the choir, the Urinating Angels.

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After lunch we walked over to Monestario de las Huelgas (PRS-42-14). It was amazing but didn’t allow indoor pictures. It was founded by Leanora la Inglaterra the wife of Alfonso VIII, and daughter of Henry II and Eleanor of Acquitane (you remember them as Peter O’Toole and Katherine Hepburn). There was awesome artwork and artifacts. Here is the outside of the monastery.

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Posted from Burgos, Castile and León, Spain.

Day 14 – Burgos Cathedral

The cathedral is everything the books say. I will try to fill in with pictures later. We saw the chapels around the main church but not the main church. We started with mass on the Capilla de Santa Tecla (PRS-42-1-10). We were not supposed to take pictures but I snuck one of the baptismal font. The Retalbo showing the martyrdom of Santa Tecla was quite impressive.

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Posted from Burgos, Castile and León, Spain.

Day 13 – hop ahead to Burgos

After breakfast in San Millán we taxied back to Nájera and caught a bus to Burgos where we will spend a few days touring and relaxing. According to the Pilgrimage Road, we could spend a few days in the cathedral alone. Here is a quick picture of the entrance to the city and a statue of another famous knight. Yes we have gone from the Song of Roland to El Cid!

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Posted from Burgos, Castile and León, Spain.